The Ukrainian wine industry, a budding sector with immense potential, is facing an unprecedented challenge amidst the ongoing war. The story of Mykhailo Molchanov and his family's winery, Steppe Wines, is a testament to resilience and hope in the face of adversity. As the sun shone on their organic vineyard, the Molchanovs' idyllic scene was marred by the haunting presence of a Russian rocket, a stark reminder of the war's relentless impact.
Mykhailo and his wife, Svitlana, along with their son Heorhii, have persevered since the full-scale invasion began in February 2022. They left their home in Mykolaiv and made their winery their temporary refuge, where they found themselves under the artillery of both armies. The family's wine cellar, surprisingly, became their bomb shelter, preserving a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon. The capture of Mykolaiv by the Russians would have opened a path to the Black Sea port of Odesa, a strategic objective for the invaders.
Despite the challenges, the Molchanovs have expanded their vineyard since the invasion, planting native Ukrainian grape varieties like telti kuruk and odesa black. They aim to increase production from 10,000 bottles annually to 30,000-50,000 in the next decade. Mykhailo's optimism stems from his belief in the potential of Ukrainian wine, drawing parallels to the 1960s in Italy. However, the family's focus is not solely on wine; they also provide a hub for local winemakers, including Olha Kashchenko, who lost her vineyard in Kherson due to the war's devastation.
The Ukrainian wine industry has faced significant setbacks, with 68,000 hectares of vineyard land reduced to 15,000. Many vineyards have been lost to occupation, the Kakhovka dam explosion, and changing farming practices. Yet, there is a glimmer of hope as 82 craft wineries have emerged since 2022, mostly in safer regions. The Vinnytsia region's Gigi winery, for instance, grows Georgian and Ukrainian grapes, showcasing the industry's diversity. However, the Beykush winery, located near Mykolaiv, faces constant threats from Russian attacks and the occupation of a nearby national park.
Beykush, established in 2010, pays homage to the area's rich history of viticulture, dating back to ancient Greek settlers and Jewish growers in the early 20th century. The winery's focus on quality and small-scale production has been a struggle, but legal reforms in 2018 have supported the craft winemaking sector. Despite the dangers, Beykush continues to produce wine, with the team led by head winemaker Olha Romashko and her deputy, Oleksandr Pashkovsky, planting new vines and tending to their crops, embodying the industry's resilience and belief in the future.
